Made Up: A History of Identity and Gender Expression Through Makeup and Style

This book explores historical and modern uses of makeup for self-expression, with a focus on gender.

The book begins by exploring the historical influences in the origins and development of makeup across genders, providing a whistle-stop tour of gendered adornment through time.

The chapters that follow explore more specific topics that provide context for a range of influences on self-expression:

• Sex, gender and identity, including introductory gender theory and terminology relevant to the topic.
• Restrictions and resistance faced by the queer community regarding expression, with a historical look at pioneers of the movement.
• Gendered cosmetic advertisements through time.
• Subcultures and coded expression.
• Beauty and identity in the digital age.
• The impact of global ideals on the cosmetics market, with a focus on South Korea, exploring historical and modern influences and trends.

The book can be explored in a sequential or non-sequential order, as each chapter provides a standalone approach to a topic and concludes with questions to encourage further contemplation and research.

This book is written for anyone interested in the history of makeup as a vehicle for self-expression, and how gender comes into play; students and teachers of Theatrical makeup and Fashion courses, makeup artists, makeup enthusiasts, and those curious to discover what Ancient Egyptians and emos may have in common (spoiler: it’s not snakebites).

Charli Butterfield is a makeup artist and lecturer specialising in the history of makeup and creative makeup practice. With an MA in art history and background in gender studies, alongside over a decade of experience working with creative makeup brands, Charli is an enthusiastic champion of self-expression and teaches across a range of disciplines on subcultures, global beauty trends and identity through makeup and style.