JOHN SHELTON REED is the William Rand Kenan Jr. Professor of Sociology (Emeritus) at the University of North Carolina. He is the author or editor of twenty-two books, mostly about the South and Southern culture, including most recently Mixing It Up: A South-Watcher’s Miscellany. He is co-founder and Éminence Grease of the Campaign for Real Barbecue (TrueCue.org).