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Life of Brine 作者:Phil Jarratt 出版社:Hardie Grant Books 出版日期:2017-08-01 語言:英文 |
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Life of Brine is the memoir of Phil Jarratt, one of the world’s best-known chroniclers of surfing culture, whose lifelong pursuit of the perfect wave has placed him in the midst of some of the most exciting moments in surfing’s modern history.
Jarratt, who has often courted controversy in his long career as a journalist, editor and documentarian, pulls no punches as he rides an exhilarating wave of nostalgia from the Sixties up until now, through the heady days of drugs, alcohol and excess from Bali to Biarritz, Morocco to Malibu, and other exotic locations in between.
Filled with the carefree, sometimes reckless enthusiasm of youth, yet balanced by reflection and insight, this is a book that will be devoured by surfers young and old, and by free spirits of all kinds and all ages.
About the authorPhil Jarratt has worked in surf publishing and the surf industry for more than forty years, and is regarded as one of the sport’s foremost authorities. The editor of Tracks and Australian Surfer’s Journal and an associate editor of Surfer, Phil has received the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame Media Award four times and has won numerous other awards for his work. He has authored thirty-five books including award-winning surf histories and bestselling biographies.
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