Kanpai: The History of Sake

Lift a glass to the story of sake--from Japanese homebrew to global phenomenon.

Sake, Japan’s iconic rice-based alcoholic drink, has been central to Japanese culture for over 1,300 years. Traditionally made with rice, water, and koji mold, it was consumed in early brewpubs and was vital to samurai rituals and festivals. Sake’s story includes homebrewers like clan matriarchs, ancient princes, and modern political activists who defied laws to keep homebrewing alive. Temples refined sake-making techniques, laying the foundation for a thriving industry that became a major economic force for shoguns and the modern state.

Kanpai is the first history of sake in English, exploring its evolution from homebrew to flavored varieties, and its cultural significance and global rise--including its growing popularity and production in North America and Europe. The book also shows how sake has shaped Japanese food, society, and traditions.

Eric C. Rath is professor of history at the University of Kansas. His books include Oishii: The History of Sushi, also published by Reaktion Books.