▍基本資訊試閱 ▍
屏東──背山面海的熱帶之都
PingTung——Tropical Landwith HillsBehindandthe Ocean in front
位處台灣最南端的屏東縣,南北狹長、四季如春,這裡散居著原住民、閩南、客家等多元族群,擁有豐富的文化面貌。這裡並不像台灣其他城市迅速走上工業化之路,反而處處充滿性格,蘊藏意想不到的可能。
像是大武山腳下的屏北地區,不但有現存最古老的教堂建築,更種植出世界上品質最優良的可可;沿海的東港地區,由35萬顆蚵殼打造的燈會主燈「海之女神」成為地方新地標。向南來到陽光燦爛的恆春鎮,不時會望見全台保存最完整的百年城牆;再往南抵達台灣首座國家公園所在地——墾丁,隨處都能碰上被湛藍海洋吸引而來、曬得一身黝黑的國內外衝浪愛好者。
屏東除了引以為傲的生態景觀與蔬果農產外,近期也有許多風格小店出現,15年開始舉辦原民藝術音樂祭典「斜坡上的藝術節」,台灣設計展也在2019年首度於此開展,讓屏東展現有別於以往的風貌。總之要是膩了大城市的生活,就來國境之南吧,讓南方的陽光,療癒疲憊的身心。
Located at the very south of Taiwan, the oblong county of Pingtung has the privilege of enjoying nice weather year round. The residents here consist of indigenous, Minnan, Hakka and other ethnic groups, giving this land a diverse culture. Instead of hastily pursuing industrialization like other cities in Taiwan, Pingtung retains its original character and shows endless possibilities.
In the Pingbei area under the hill of Dawu Mountain that is also called Kavulungan in the indigenous Paiwan language, you will find the oldest church in Taiwan and some of the best-quality chocolate in the world. By the sea in Donggang Township, a new landmark has formed—The Goddess of the Sea, a lantern art installation built with 350,000 oyster shells. In the sunny Hengchun Township, the well-preserved, century-old town walls, nowhere else to be found in Taiwan, accompany you on your journey. Kenting (Kending)National Park, the first national park to open in Taiwan, is the place to meet surfers from around the world, all come to challenge the azure ocean.
Besides the worth-mentioning natural scenery and fresh produce, an abundance of cultural activities have been emerging in this area over the past few years, such as stylish shops and stores, and the Isenasena indigenous music festival which started in 2015. It was even decided that the 2019 Taiwan Design Expo would open in Pingtung for the first time. These active cultural scenes bring a fresh new look to Pingtung. If you are tired of bustling city life, just come to the south of the island and let the southern sun rejuvenate your exhausted body and mind.
交通
台北往屏東可搭乘高鐵至高雄左營站(約2 小時),再轉搭台鐵至屏東站,約需40 分鐘左右。市區內有公共自行車Pbike可租借,但強烈建議租汽、機車代步,若打算繼續前往恆春或墾丁,會方便許多。
To get to Pingtung from Taipei by public transportation, first catch the HSR to Zuoying Station, which takes about 2 hours. Then transfer to the TRA and travel to Pingtung Station, which takes about 40 minutes. When traveling in Pingtung City, although Pbike (public bike-sharing service)is available around town, renting a scooter or a car is highly advisable in the event you decide to travel further south to Hengchun or Kenting.
旅遊書籍
THE PLACE: PINGTUNG《本地 The Place 03:屏東》
從文化、習俗、人物等多角度切入,目前最棒的屏東深度旅遊書
Currently one of the best Pingtung travel guides, covering the culture, the customs and the people
books.com.tw/products/0010820636
在地刊物
VERY PINGTUNG《屏東本事》
由屏東縣政府發行的季刊,編輯用心,可線上閱讀
Diligent quarterly magazine covering local affairs published by the Pingtung government
e-book:www.pthg.gov.tw/cp.aspx?n=33321C846BA15DA3
AMAZING PINGTUNG
由屏東縣政府發行的在地資訊雙月刊,可線上閱讀
Diligent bimonthly magazine covering local affairs published by the Pingtung government
e-book:www.pthg.gov.tw/Link3.aspx?n=9238A86FB315F514
TOURISM BROCHURE OF PINGTUNG《關於屏東的6件事》
一發刊就被搶光的旅遊手冊,共有咖啡、甜點、米食、閱讀、山、海6本
Six highly in-demand Pingtung travel brochures titled Coffee, Dessert, Rice, Cuisine, Read, Mountain and Sea
e-book:issuu.com/pthgwebsite
NEW WAYS TO EXPLORE SOUTHERN TAIWAN《南島新玩樣》
2019墾丁社區生態旅遊手冊,中英文版皆可線上閱讀
Kenting's community ecotourism guide for 2019. On-line versions are available in Chinese and English
中文:issuu.com/lishaneco/docs/kenting_ecotourism-ch-2016
English:issuu.com/ lishaneco/docs/kenting_ecotourism
旅遊網站
I-PINGTUNG TRAVEL GUIDE屏東縣觀光旅遊網
屏東市旅遊官方網站,少數比較好看的政府網頁
Pingtung government's official online travel guide (one of the better looking ones)
i-pingtung.com
UUKT悠遊墾丁
最完整的墾丁、恆春旅遊資訊網站,規劃墾丁行程必備
One of the most comprehensive Kenting and Hengchun travel websites. An essential planning tool
uukt.com.tw
TAIWAN NEW FOOD屏食樂趣
分享屏東美食店家的臉書粉絲專頁
Facebook page sharing information about good food and restaurants in Pingtung
FB:taiwannewfood
導覽
PEARL PINGTUNG南國小藝思.沐光私旅行
不定期舉辦社區、在地小旅行,網站也有推薦行程
Providing short, irregularly scheduled local/community trips and recommended itineraries
FB:pearlpingtung | topcape.com.tw
LISHAN ECO COM森社場所
以里山為中心思想,推廣生態旅遊的在地團隊
Local team promoting the Satoyama Initiative and ecotourism
年度活動
HEAR HERE FEST (OCT.)半島歌謠祭(10月)
在恆春舉辦的國際民謠音樂節,邀請大家一起來同歡
International world music festival in Hengchun that welcomes everyone
FB:hearherefest
▍推薦好點試閱 ▍
藝術與文化
ARTS AND CULTURE
WANCHIN BASILICA OF THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION 萬金聖母聖殿
Oldest church preserved in Taiwan, conferred the title of basilica by Pope John Paul II
台灣現存最古老的教堂,受教宗若望保祿二世列為聖殿
屏東縣萬巒鄉萬興路24號 | +886-8-783-2005
No. 24, Wanxing Rd., Wanluan Township, Pingtung County
SSUN VILLE 小陽。日栽書屋
Vibrant bookstore converted from an old house and holding frequent cultural events
完整保留老屋結構,經常發起藝文活動,能量充沛
900屏東縣屏東市清營巷1號
No. 1, Qingying Ln., Pingtung City, Pingtung County
14:00–20:00 (Closed Mon.and Wed.)
AKAUW BOOKS 繫。本屋
Abundant selection of folk culture related books and locale-specific foods
擁有豐富民俗文化選書,且巧妙結合文化特色餐飲
屏東縣屏東市永城里青島街112號 | +886-908-839-267
No. 112, Yongcheng, Pingtung City, Pingtung County
10:30–18:30 (Closed Mon. and Tue.)
BLEU & BOOK IN PINGTUNG CITY 南國青鳥
The Hipsters' favorite place, located in Sun Li-Jen Nationalist general's old residence and offering a diverse book selection
位於孫立人將軍行館,選書多元,是文藝青年集散地
屏東縣屏東市中山路61號 | +886-8-732-1882
61, Zhongshan Rd., Pingtung City | Sat. and Sun. 10:00–20:00
LINGER BOOKSTORE 小島停琉
Bookstore in Little Liuqiu devoted to ocean protection that has a selection of ocean-related books.
致力維護海洋環境,以海洋為選書主題的小琉球書店
屏東縣琉球鄉中正路255-1號 | +886-936-237-586
No. 255-1, Zhongzheng Rd., Liuqiu Township, Pingtung County
14:00–21:00
HC PLAYGROUND 城東大院子
Important platform for local artists providing food and offering artist-in-residence and educational programs.
結合食堂、駐村及學堂,藝文創作者接觸地方的重要窗口
屏東縣恆春鎮東門路2巷19號 | +886-8-888-3660
No. 19, Ln. 2, Dongmen Rd., Hengchun Township, Pingtung County
11:00–20:00 (Closed on Tuesdays)
▍推薦路線試閱 ▍
台東糖廠文創園區與鐵花村周圍
TaitungSugar Factoryand Tiehua Music Village
來個台東一日藝文之旅!
9:00 去「明奎早餐店」或「有時散步早午食」吃早餐
10:00 造訪「臺東設計中心」看當期展覽
11:00 在「東昌帆布行」訂製專屬台東伴手禮
12:00 到「香琪鴨肉」享用午餐
13:00 飯後甜點到「正東山冰屋」或來杯「無名楊桃冰」
14:00 前往「晃晃二手書店」,買一本主人素素選的好書
15:00 驅車前往「台東糖廠文創園區」,逛「庫空間」與「卡塔文化工作室」
17:00 前往「公東教堂」,欣賞隱藏在台東的世界級當代建築
18:00 一群人同遊晚餐推薦去「米巴奈山地美食坊」,自己一個人可前往「好港覺」或「福來東咖啡」
19:30 到「目目咖啡」、「食冊Café 書店」或「艾蘭哥爾藝文咖啡館」喝杯咖啡幫助消化
20:30 去「鐵花村音樂聚落」看表演、逛市集,結束完美的一天
9:00 Have breakfast at Ming Kui Breakfast and Walkabout Café
10:00 Visit Taitung Design Center for their latest exhibition
11:00 Get a custom-made souvenir at Dong Chang Canvas
12:00 Have lunch at Xiang Qi Duck
13:00 Head to Zheng Dong Shan Smoothie and Juice Bar or Nameless StarFruit Juice for dessert
14:00 Pick out a good book curated by the owner of Guesthouse Susu, aunique second hand bookstore
15:00 Hail a cab for the Taitung Sugar Factory Cultural and Creative Parkand check out The Garage and Ata Beads Studio
17:00 Visit Kung Tung Church, a world-class work of architecture hidden inTaitung
18:00 For groups, I would recommend dining at Mi Ba Nai Local AboriginalFood; if you're dining solo, I recommend Yirga Tt or Flight Café
19:30 After dinner, head over to MùMù Café or Alanger Coffee for a coffeeto help with your digestion
20:30 To end the night on a perfect note, go to Tiehua Music Village forperformances and markets
!來個台東一日藝文之旅!
▍特輯試閱 ▍
台南人跩什麼?
ProudTainanese──
What do the people of Tainan have to be cocky about?!
全世界來到台南都有同樣的心聲:「台南人到底在跩什麼?」凌晨開賣、賣完就不再補貨的牛肉湯、公休日比營業日還要長的商店,種種在台南獨有的觀光「挑戰」,讓旅客不禁在心中好奇:「台南人流的到底是什麼樣
的傲骨血液?」本篇特輯邀請到兩位土生土長並在台南創業的新生代:「鳥飛古物店」老闆葉家宏與「糯夫米糕」主理人劉雨樵,請他們來跟我們說明白。
Q1:一句話形容台南人?
葉家宏 ( 以下簡稱葉):好好吃飯,好好休息,好好生活。
劉雨樵 ( 以下簡稱劉):自以為是,以為全世界只有台南這個城市,把台南當成了一個國家。雖然台南人流著傲慢的血液,但卻相當富有人情味,可以熱情地向每個人介紹台南這座城市與生活,可說是既矛盾又可愛。
Q2:台南人為何能如此「理直氣壯」地跩( 有性格) ?
葉:我想歷史脈絡與文化占了很重要的因素。慢火溫煮的城市文化底蘊,醞釀出台南特有的個性;百年歷史衝擊及堆積下,產出了自己的氣質。在台南,大家為了理想與生計努力工作,但也沒有忘記要過好自己的生活,這是跟其他地方不一樣的想法。台南步調慢一點,城市規模小一點,樣子亂一點,卻一切都可愛可愛的。
劉:其實台南人真的都把台南這座城市當成自己的家,不允許任何外力進入破壞改變。台南人不僅愛著自己的城市,也迷戀著台南人獨有的生活氣息。台南是個可以好好作夢、好好過日子以及工作的城市,擁有如此生活的台南人,您說,能不理直氣壯嗎?
Q3:請各舉一例對台南的又「恨」又「愛」?
葉:台南用自己的角度詮釋全台灣的食物,並衍生出屬於台南的味道。「台南會黏人,食物會黏人,人與人之間的感覺會黏人。」恨的是那些老口味、小店總是一個比一個更會過生活,大家輪流公休,每天準備的分量售完就休息,有時候突然很想吃某家店,就被迫要忍耐。
劉: 台南是個迷人的城市,迷人之處或許是這裡是個可以好好生活的地方。我們很習慣台南炎熱的天氣,或是騎著機車在大街小巷穿梭,經過擁著大樹並被陽光穿透的街道,被一座座歷史古蹟包圍,你能不愛嗎?說恨,我恨台南的食物都那麼好吃,又想不克制地大快朵頤,恨台南讓我體重一直上升!
Q4:經營自己志業對台南人的觀察?
葉:經營古物若是收到台南在地的物件,總是讓人興奮。從古物可以細細觀察以前的台南人如何生活。老台南人的生活方式總是很優雅,從物件細節就可以看得出來那個時代多麼講究。
劉:身為新生代的年輕人,踏入台南餐飲界根本是條不歸路,挑戰也高。台南人不太接收新事物,新店要進入台南人的生活,確實是需要時間醞釀的。當然,我相信時間久了大家能感受你的用心,我會繼續努力訴說「糯夫米糕」的故事,希望有朝一日成為台南富有人情味的老店。
Q5:期許國內外旅客來台南能夠感受到的真正內涵?
葉:除了品嚐台南美食外,希望旅客能來台南住上一週甚至更長的時間,並試著融入台南的生活。離開的時候就會發現,身心靈有個地方似乎已經被台南黏住了。請去細細品味那些老味道、看看在台南萌芽的想法與理念。台南的魅力,其實就是台南的日常。
劉:請放下手邊充斥著各種科技的電子產品,租台單車,好好深入台南。用走走停停的速度,感受這城市帶給你的味道。
When people from around the world visit Tainan, they all have the same question in mind: What on Earth are the Tainan people so cocky about?Beef soup shops that open before daybreak and close for the day rather than cover their shortfall, and stores that are more often closed than open are some unique challenges that travelers encounter when visiting Tainan, making travelers wonder: What kind of cocky blood flows through the veins of the people of Tainan?We were honored to be able to interview the owner of Asuka Antique, Pipi Yeh, and the principal manager of Nuo Fu Rice Pudding, Liu Yu-Qiao. After all, they were born and raised in Tainan, and give their all every day in their given professions, so who better to represent the new generation of Tainan business owners and to sit down and explain everything to us.
Can you describe the people of Tainan in a single sentence?
Pipi Ye (hereafter referred to as Pipi): Eat well, rest well, live well.
Liu Yu-Qiao (hereafter referred to as Yu-Qiao): Cocky. We are of the opinion that Tainan is the only place on Earth. We see Tainan as a country and have pride in our blood. However, we are friendly and generous at the same time. We like to talk about ourselves, our city, and our lives, all of which are contradictory yet lovable.
Why do the people of Tainan have such pride?
Pipi: In my opinion, our history and culture are the two main factors. Our culture, gradually-developed over time, has nurtured the distinctive character of Tainan. The hundred-year history of Tainan has given rise to its unique qualities. The people of Tainan live their life in the city where they grew up. Sometimes they have to fight to earn a living or to create the future they dream of, but they never forget to live their lives. Tainan might be smaller, slower, and messier than other cities, and it might be full of strong opinions, but it is still lovable.
Yu-Qiao: The people of Tainan view the whole city as their home. The unique pace of this city is immutable. The people of Tainan are not only in love with their city but also obsessed with the life here. Tainan is a place where you can live well, dream well, and work hard. Why wouldn't anyone who lives here be proud?
Can you give an example of an aspect of Tainan with which you have a love-hate relationship?
Pipi: There are all kinds of foods in Tainan, with everyone interpreting Taiwanese cuisine in their own way, and this has developed into the typical flavors associated with Tainan. As people say: The city, the food, and the people of Tainan will all stick with you. What I hate about it is that all of the eateries know how to live their lives better than we do. They take turns to have days off and close business for the day as soon as supplies run out, which means I have to wait and deal with my cravings.
Yu-Qiao: Tainan is an enchanting city, possibly because it's a place where you can live your life properly. Life here is about heading out on a scorching day, riding a scooter down alleyways lined with tall trees, appreciating the sun shining on the ground and the historical sites you see along the way. When described in this way, who wouldn't love it?As for what I hate about Tainan, I hate the highly palatable food which I can't help but to devour. I hate that Tainan is making me fat!
What are your observations on the people of Tainan while developing your career there?
Pipi: As an antique collector, I get excited whenever I find local objects. You can tell how the people of Tainan lived their lives in olden times by carefully examining those objects. However, life in Tainan in olden times was always elegant, you can also see how much they cared about the little things, the details of the daily items they used.
Yu-Qiao: As a member of the younger generation, it's a challenge to enter the restaurant and catering industry, and it's a path of no return. The people of Tainan have a tendency to reject new things, which means extra time is required if you want to enter their territory. Of course, your efforts will be paid back in due time. I've been challenging the people of Tainan with my local blood, telling the story of Nuo Fu Rice Pudding through my industrious efforts and diligent food preparation. My vision is for my shop to become one of the establishments that exhibits the priceless hospitality of this city.
How do you suggest visitors might best experience the true significance of Tainan when they travel here?
Pipi: Besides tasting all the well-known street foods, staying here for a week or more and blending into the day-to-day life of the locals might be even better. You might find that, when it comes time to leave, a part of your heart has become attached to Tainan. To enjoy the flavors cultivated over decades and to learn about the new ideas and visions emerging in Tainan will provide you with a feeling of contentment. The charm of Tainan is actually found in the daily life of the city.
Yu-Qiao: Put down your electronic devices, rent a bike, and thoroughly explore Tainan. Hop off the bike whenever you feel like it and experience the city's ambiance.