This historiographical study delves into the fascinating world of nineteenth-century German clothing and fashion histories, set against the backdrop of Kulturgeschichte, or cultural history. It scrutinizes the pioneering work of four prominent German researchers and reveals how the study of historical clothing and fashion played a pivotal role in the political project of nation-building. The first scholar under examination is Jakob von Hefner-Alteneck (1811-1903), an antiquarian and cultural historian, whose methodology centered on the systematic exploration of Denkmaler (monuments) and artifacts. His work served as a means of resurrecting historical awareness, offering continuity to a past disrupted by revolutions and societal upheavals in early nineteenth-century Germany.
The study also spotlights Gustav Klemm (1802-1869), a librarian whose anthropological approach sought to uncover the "original conditions of humanity," particularly in terms of cultural progress. Klemm’s research on clothing paralleled his broader perspective on humanity, characterized by a dichotomy between "passive" and "active" races.
Jacob von Falke (1825-1897), a cultural historian and museum curator, emerges as another central figure in this narrative. Influenced by the burgeoning field of art history and the insights of German art historian Karl Schnaase, Falke advocated for a survey-style narrative approach to the history of clothing and fashion, aligning his work with the zenith of Kulturgeschichte.