Kaye Durland Spilker

All of the tradition-based canons that governed the world of haute couture since the fifties were subverted by the creative genius of stylists who forged the history of today’s fashion. Designers such as Franco Moschino, Christian Lacroix, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, and Thierry Mugler went beyond the preciousness of fabrics, the studied geometry, and immobility of finish that typified couture up until the middle of the twentieth century. They exploited advances in its latter half in both technique and material to create a women’s fashion that is both innovative and elegant. Using the adaptability of synthetic fibers and new working methods, they changed the very concept of silhouette.Presented here alphabetically are forty of the most innovative of these designers in a combination of visual material with concise, descriptive texts by the book’s curators. Photographs, sketches, drawings, and computer renderings explore their design processes and showcase their most exquisite womenswear, shoes, hats, and accessories. Breaking the Mode is an essential book for fashion insiders as well as anyone interested in popular culture and style.

Sharon S. Takeda and Kaye D. Spilker are collaborators at the LACMA (Los Angeles County Museum of Art) and experts of Haute couture and Contemporary Fashion.